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alt=”Shrimp Al Ajillo with garlic mezcal chipotle butter, tres quesos, and stone ground corn grits at The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />Shrimp Al Ajillo with garlic mezcal chipotle butter, tres quesos, and stone ground corn grits at The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

In Bedford, The Painted Burro rolls with the pandemic punches

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alt=”BLT tacos with crispy pork belly, romaine lettuce, pico de gallo, salsa, and cotija cheese at The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />BLT tacos with crispy pork belly, romaine lettuce, pico de gallo, salsa, and cotija cheese at The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

Years ago, Bedford’s hottest culinary destination was Luigi’s — the kind of place where this writer could get a slab of chicken parmesan and a crisp iceberg salad for under $10 after shopping next door at Marshalls with her mother.

Luigi’s went out, and restaurateur Joe Cassinelli moved in with Posto, a branch of his popular Davis Square Italian restaurant, known for Neapolitan pizza. It launched in late 2019 and did a brisk pre-pandemic business, but locals were also confused, he says. They missed Luigi’s. They expected fat portions of spaghetti with a complimentary salad and bottomless bread.

alt=”The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

“People were comparing Posto to Luigi’s and not understanding the difference. They’d go next door to Whole Foods and spend $300 on a half-empty cart but also look for $9.99 chicken parm with soup and dessert, and that’s not what we’re about. There is no bone in my body that wants to do that type of red-sauce American restaurant. It’s not in my DNA.” he says.

Then, Margarita’s Mexican restaurant closed a few miles away. Cassinelli saw a chance to replace Posto with The Painted Burro, his Somerville Mexican restaurant. (There’s a third branch in Waltham, also formerly a Posto.)

And thus, The Painted Burro Bedford opened three weeks ago.

“This isn’t Acapulco’s or Margaritas Tex-Mex,” he promises.

alt=”Shrimp Al Ajillo with garlic mezcal chipotle butter, tres quesos, and stone ground corn grits at The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />Shrimp Al Ajillo with garlic mezcal chipotle butter, tres quesos, and stone ground corn grits at The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

Instead, The Painted Burro walks a fine line between comforting and creative. If you’re feeling frisky, you can choose from an array of tacos on sturdy corn tortillas: BLT, made with pork belly; spicy grilled shrimp with mango and habanero salsa and a veritable quilt of pickled onions; or fried chicken with lime ranch dressing ($7 each, give or take). Fillings are generous.

My sons got a flour kids’ quesadilla ($6) filled with juicy pork and a side of guacamole, which was fresh and chunky (add pork belly to chunk it up further).

Pork carnitas enchiladas with mole ($22) is divisive: There’s plenty of mole, but it carries the bitter sweetness of red wine, not the chocolate nuttiness common in some versions. My husband loved it; I wanted it thicker and richer. Brussels sprouts ($12) avoid their commonly mushy fate: They’re crispy at the edges, with plenty of crumbled bacon and a refreshing splash of orange-cholula vinaigrette.

alt=”Nachos De La Casa with house chorizo, tres quesos, pork charro beans, pickled jalapenos, pico de gallo, guacamole, and baja and chipotle mayo over tortilla chips at The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />Nachos De La Casa with house chorizo, tres quesos, pork charro beans, pickled jalapenos, pico de gallo, guacamole, and baja and chipotle mayo over tortilla chips at The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

Cassinelli says the chimichanga, stuffed with chicken tinga and saffron rice, is his best-seller — and he’s not kidding. It was out of stock when I tried to order. Corn chips are made locally by Mi Tierra in Springfield; salsa is of the smooth, moderately picante variety. Overall, it’s a higher-end deviation from chain Mexican restaurants in the region — and there’s absolutely no chance you’ll confuse this place with Luigi’s.

The Painted Burro, 158 Great Road, Bedford, 781-271-9011, www.thepaintedburro.com

alt=”The Painted Burro in Bedford.” width=”” height=”” />The Painted Burro in Bedford. Josh Reynolds for The Boston Globe

The fish taco also had shaved cabbage and crema, along with julienned radishes.

Restaurant review: Burro brings tacos and more to Burlington

BURLINGTON — The Alex, on Brant Street, has transformed into Burro.

The Other Bird restaurant group (Rapscallion, Black Sheep, The Arlington Hotel, etc.) already has The Mule in downtown Hamilton, but now Burlington can get a taste of their tacos without the travel.

The dining room is wide enough for a lengthy wooden banquette and a series of tables for two with stools pulled up neatly. A fiesta on the ceiling: four strips of cloth, hanging side by side, run the length of the room, adding punches of colour.

The name of the restaurant is just one nod to Mexico. Two of the cloth strips, red and green, respectively, brought the Mexican flag to mind. And I couldn’t miss the graphic male and female figures with Day of the Dead-style heads on the bathroom doors, which made me wonder what kind of spirits I was going to run into that night.

That spirit turned out to be tequila, of course. The wine list had a Gamay-Cabernet (Rief Estate Winery, Niagara), a Rioja (Vina Echeverria, Chile), and a few other choices, and the “I could use a drink” menu had some classic Mexican beers (Corona, Modelo Negro), and pitchers of sangria. But I went with a cocktail, a mescal sour. It had an enjoyably complex taste, the lemon and lime wrapped in a subtle smoke, and a floral hint of Lillet Rouge that lingered.

After that, I concurred with James Brown, who was belting out “I Feel Good” in the background. I was happy to sip my companion’s margarita, one of the only margaritas I’ve had with the perfect amount of salt on the rim. Just enough to enhance the tequila’s flavour and bring out an interesting mineral quality at the finish.

The drinks echoed the vibe of the music: similar to a wedding mix with tons of dance tunes from the ’70s or thereabouts. Tom Jones. A little “Funky Town.” Oldies but goodies.

The server who took our order handled the room very capably, along with a co-worker whose T-shirt told us of “Important people who like tacos” — this vaunted list included “your mom” and “anyone ever.”

Tacos were the main event but we started with appetizers. First, the whitefish ceviche, covered in radish slices, cilantro, pickled onions and what tasted to me like grated pear, an excellent touch. The fish could have been cut thinner or pounded a bit more to cut down on the chewiness, but the flavours came together with a generous squeeze of lime.

Chorizo nachos came next. Don’t expect the huge plateful you get from the bar, these are more like slightly large tapas servings. The chorizo was a bit underwhelming. It tasted fine but didn’t have that vinegary, spicy zing I prefer, and a few more pieces would have been nice. But the nachos, like the ceviche, were brought up a level with the lime. The accompanying crema also gave a good, acidic kick.

Then, the main event: tacos! Although they did offer “the classic,” there were many non-standard choices, including vegan options such as sweet potato. Burro is also unabashedly gluten-free, so no flour tortillas.

We went with the spicy Brussels sprout, the curried goat, the spicy beef cheek and the fish tacos.

The beef cheek was shredded and served with hot peppers, fried onions and a cabbage slaw. The meat was fine — not super succulent but not dry, either — and the simple slaw added crunch. I found this taco spicy enough, but there was also sauce on the table spiked with paprika and vinegar for those who want to crank up the heat.

The curried goat was heavy on turmeric and lighter on other supporting spices. It came with crema and shaved cabbage. The flavours melded fairly nicely.

The fish taco also had shaved cabbage and crema, along with julienned radishes.

All three tacos gave me the overall impression of being meaty and crunchy, with a touch of cream — but also in terms of flavour intensity, I’d put them at the medium mark. They were certainly tasty enough for my companion and myself to finish them all.

The star of the night: the Brussels sprout taco. The sprouts were deep and roasted. They were a touch spicy, but the depth of flavour was striking and, with the other accoutrements, this dish was heavenly.

Dessert called soon after, and we ordered the only choice: bite-size churros. They, too, were gluten-free, made of cornmeal and served with chocolate sauce and a lime whipped cream. Heavier than you’d expect, but lighter than corn bread. So not quite a churro, really, but an interesting alternative.

On the way out, as I looked out of the window that had been behind me throughout the meal, I spied a pretty large patio with a wall covered in a Mexican themed mural.

Summer, tequila and tacos? Sounds like a party to me.

Another feature I love is the cup holders! No more searching around the ground for my bottle of water or glass of iced tea.

Versatile Garden Helper

My husband and I each used the Little Burro, loading it with tools, buckets, and even a watering can. Our favorite features were the compartments and holes for hand tools, which made it easy to find objects when in the middle of a task. Not only could we locate the tools nearby, but they were organized and ready for use.

Another feature I love is the cup holders! No more searching around the ground for my bottle of water or glass of iced tea.

I loaded up the Little Burros for planting and loved the dual drink (or plant) holders.

The holders on both sides of the Little Burro tray are made so you can easily set shovels, rakes and other long-handled tools onto the wheelbarrow and carry them along. The tools traveled well, although some required pulling back as far as possible near the holder to counterbalance the heavier end of the tool. The Little Burro label gives easy instructions for safely setting tools in the tray. And overall, it was much easier to transport tools this way than to just drop them in the wheelbarrow and hope they didn’t scoot around or poke the “driver” in the stomach.

This small rake fit nicely on the carrier. You can carry tools on both sides of the Little Burro.

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Power Bowl

We have brunch here often. Love the giant quesadillas and the power bowls . The Sunday brunch with the mimosas selection is a fun start to the day.

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• Anastasia Y.
• Denver, CO

• 439 friends
• 47 reviews
• 90 photos
• Elite ’22

We were in town staying at Hotel Solomar which is right around the corner so we stopped by for an afternoon drink and snacks. Guac was pretty good and the skinny margs were delish. I got the Power Bowl for something fresh, it was OK but not a ton of flavor. They do have a great patio and outdoor seating!

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• Melanie B.
• San Diego, CA

• 1 friend
• 94 reviews
• 19 photos
• Elite ’22

Love this place – super friendly service and delicious food – the Power Bowl with chicken is amazing and my hubby loves their taco. We live in Rancho Bernardo but this place is def worth the drive. Highly recommend it

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• Lauren B.
• San Diego, CA

• 1 friend
• 27 reviews
• 31 photos

Great ambiance on a Wednesday night, menu is great and everything was delicious. Got the power bowl with salmon. salmon was kinda lame but it’s a Mexican restaurant 🙂

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• Leah T.
• Redondo Beach, CA

• 59 friends
• 18 reviews
• 2 photos

Considering its name, the food presentation at this restaurant was surprisingly spot-on!

We visited the Blind Burro for an early dinner on New Year’s Eve. We were enticed by the happy hour specials — I enjoyed my margaritas with added jalapeno, while my partner enjoyed the house red wine. Great value for money!

For our meals, I ordered the ” power bowl ” and added chicken. The mixture of vegetables was a fantastic blend with the goat cheese and the small kick from the tomatillo sauce. My partner ordered the chicken “machete” (quesadilla). It featured their homemade corn tortillas which are humongous, and the seasonings were excellent. We were both pleasantly surprised at the depth of flavor in our meals — and the portion sizes were huge, meaning we got to enjoy the leftovers for lunch the next day.

The service was good with standard turnaround time on the food and consistent refills, however near the end when it got a bit busier, it was a bit of a challenge to track down our waitress and get the check.

Overall, we were very happy with this choice. Great spot for a dinner out!

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• Elizabeth F.
• San Diego, CA

• 12 friends
• 30 reviews
• 4 photos

I’m normally a sucker for hole-in-the-wall taco shops, but when I want some Mexican food that’s on the classier side, Blind Burro does it up just right. Their spicy margaritas are out of this world, and they will do them up just the way you like them (either muddled jalapeños, a sweet/spicy syrup, or a lovely combo of both if you ask really nicely!) with either a salt or a tajin rim! The bartenders here know their stuff, so I mostly come for an after-work drink during happy hour, but their food is soooo good too! The pozole is sure to cure any hangover, and the chips with all the different salsas is the perfect addition to the margaritas! And the power bowl is one of my favorite things to take home when I need something healthy in my life. Special shout out to the bartender Elyse, who always remembers exactly how I like my spicy margs!

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• Dara K.
• Dallas, TX

• 477 friends
• 15 reviews
• 12 photos

Stopped here for an early dinner with my
Boyfriend on Friday. The guacamole ESPECIALE was dankkkkk. Chunks of avo,
Sweet potatoes, rajas peppers, and corn. Amazing, don’t pass it up( and it Comes with plantains :))

The waitress gave us free chips and salsa when it is normally supposed to be $3 because we wanted regular chips in addition to the plantains with the guac, so she just brought the chips and salsa free first.

I got the power bowl , add shrimp. Really good
Flavors and packed with veggies( sautéed kale and
Spinach, corn,Mexican squash, quinoa, etc. Really
good portion size and filling.

My boyfriend got the al pastor tacos with street corn as his side. The tacos were bigger than average street and pretty packed. He put the street corn on them for extra flavor and that was next level he said. I tried the street corn & AMAZEBALLSSSS

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• Maddie H.
• Rancho Cucamonga, CA

• 82 friends
• 18 reviews
• 8 photos

I went in with my family on Friday night and we sat out on the patio, it was a nice atmosphere and friendly staff. Our waitress Krista was very nice, knowledgeable on the menu, and attentive. I was trying to decide between the Power Bowl and tacos, and I picked the bowl which was a perfect choice. It was DELICIOUS. Seriously, it was so refreshing and tasty, a great healthy option. Someone in my group got the tacos, and I would suggest them as a meal if you’re not too hungry because it’s a moderate portioned plate. The bowl was perfect because I was starving. Also, the iced tea and chips were so good!! The only thing was the salsa and side of beans were a little bland, but otherwise everything else was amazing.

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• Lanier D.
• Los Angeles, CA

• 2 friends
• 165 reviews
• 553 photos
• Elite ’22

This is actually the second time that I am writing a review for this restaurant. It’s funny because in my last review I stated: “Next time we’re in SD I’m going to return to try something else on the menu.”

We decided to a take a train from LA for a day trip to visit the San Diego Zoo. Although I said it would be good to get back to the Blind Burro I considered a lot of different places based on their proximity to the Santa Fe Depot and the Zoo. After a long day at the zoo and discussing trying other restaurants we decided that we had to come back. Since we left San Diego our last time we had both said how good the food was. I have had some good food from great restaurants with some memorable service etc. and this place is just good. We were hungry because we saved our appetites for this meal considering we only ate early in the morning.

To start, we had chips and salsa and they hit the spot. As stated in my last review my intention was to try something else if I got back to the Blind Burro and so I did. I decided to order the Chicken Tinga Torta with street corn off the cob as my side. I was satisfied the first time I ate here and upon returning I can say that my opinion of the restaurant still stands based on my first review. My girlfriend had the Power Bowl with chicken and she enjoyed it. She was describing how she would like to make it at home and that’s when you know something is good because she doesn’t necessarily enjoy cooking.

Long story short, I suggest that you try this place if you come out to San Diego for something casual, flavorful with a good vibe and service.